The family decided it was time to add a few Stand Up Paddle boards to the ever-expanding list of water toys we have. Along with Alice Gale and the Duck Punt, we also have a “Holy Cow” 15 ft canoe, two plastic kayaks, a Tige Ski boat, and two SeaDoo PWC’s. After building Alice Gale and a Duck Punt I wanted to try my luck out on building a wooded paddle board. I picked the 12.6 CLC Koholo as my base for the design and purchased a plans set. They arrived in good order and I am happy with the instructions and full size printed plans.
My apology to my faithful followers and here are the latest photo’s of the completed Koholo SUP’s. It is now winter and I will have to wait until warmer weather to launch.
You can buy finished fins from CLC or other local sources but I choose to build my own laminated fins.
I have progressed enough with the build to have sheathed the first boat hull with 4 0z fiberglass cloth and three coats of epoxy.
The second boat has progressed to the deck stage. I should be able to epoxy the deck after sanding the hull of boat number 1.
I have been in a war zone considering all the blood I have lost today. Taking stock of my injuries I have about 10 puncture wounds from being stabbed by wire during the stitching process. I spent a full day with the stitching and found it an unpleasant task. I believe the cause to be my choice of wire. The local Home Depot did not have the copper wire needed but I did have a roll of 18 gauge baling wire that I used. This wire turned out to be tough, sharp and not as compliant as copper wire of the same size would be. I suffered through the day of use until finished and after licking my wounds decided to try a different wire option in the future. I tell you this so that you do not make the same mistake I did. If you are building a stitch and glue boat, don’t choose a hard stiff wire for your stitching. I did a few stitches near the end with some 24 gauge galvanized wire that Home Depot did have and this was extremely easy to use in comparison. The only problem with the thinner 24 gauge wire is the ease in which the thinner wire can cut into your wood when tightened. So my second SUP will be stitched with the proper copper wire.
I also struggled with fitting the bow, but finally had good success after removing all the bow stitching twice and planning off more of the wood. I was probably a few millimeters wide on my side panels after scarfing and it made a huge difference in the fit. Once I got the wood closer to plan dimension it was easier. Boat number two will be a cinch.
All seams received an epoxy fillet . A second coat of epoxy was applied to the bulkheads
The stringers have been added along with fiberglassing the underside of the deck.
This was a fun day as I was able to start stitching the SUP together. First I had to finish my patches to the bulkheads and give them an initial sealing of epoxy.
I have just enough space under the table to store all the finished components.
My new DeWalt circular saw is working well. I built Alice Gale with only a jig saw and the DeWalt does make quicker and straighter cuts on the plywood. Watch your lines though as the width of the blade can take off two much wood if you drift in to the wrong side.
My batten is short and does not bend as well as I desired so I made a new one with the left over pine stock used for the sheer clamps. I now have a nice 16 ft batten that bends perfectly and is easy to hold in place with by 2 and 5 lb weights.
My 25 lb. scale weights work perfectly for holding panels down for scarfing.
I am building two boats at the same time so two deck panels are glued at the same time. Plastic sheeting separates the panels from the table top and each other.
Here’s my first photo of the stitching. I got so excited about assembly that I didn’t even take a photo of the frame installation. I will have more photo’s from this stage on the next boat.
To be continued …….