Building the Koholo 12-6 Stand Up Paddle Board

The family decided it was time to add a few Stand Up Paddle boards to the ever-expanding list of water toys we have.   Along with Alice Gale and the Duck Punt, we also have a “Holy Cow” 15 ft canoe, two plastic kayaks, a Tige Ski boat, and two SeaDoo PWC’s.   After building Alice Gale and a Duck Punt I wanted to try my luck out on building a wooded paddle board.   I picked the 12.6 CLC Koholo as my base for the design and purchased a plans set.   They arrived in good order and I am happy with the instructions and full size printed plans.

 Like all blogs the most recent post will be at the top, except for this ‘sticky’ first post.    As the SUP’s are being built you will be following the progress towards completion.     If you are visiting for the first time you will want to start from the beginning and follow the build sequence from the bottom up.    This will take you to the first post.


My apology to my faithful followers and here are the latest photo’s of the completed Koholo SUP’s.   It is now winter and I will have to wait until warmer weather to launch.


Fin detail


Cloth overlay detail


Installed storage locker


Bow cloth work and storage locker


Foot pads and carry handle


Rear deck cloth detail.


This is my SUP


This is Gail’s SUP


Wood details on my SUP


Wood details on Gail’s SUP


Side by side. Both SUP’s are same size


Shiny details


Fin détails

Fin construction

You can buy finished fins from CLC or other local sources but I choose to build my own laminated fins.


Alternate colors and width for a nice design


Glued and trimmed, ready for fiberglass


Epoxy edge build up


Ready for serious sanding


First layer of fiberglass


Use alignment blocks to attach, (not shown)


Seams are faired in with more epoxy and fiberglass cloth. Lots of sanding to come.

Fiberglass on hull number 1

I have progressed enough with the build to have sheathed the first boat hull with 4 0z fiberglass cloth and three coats of epoxy.

The second boat has progressed to the deck stage.   I should be able to epoxy the deck after sanding the hull of boat number 1.

Support for the center deck handle installed

Bow piece made from pine

Start of 2nd Koholo using easy to bend wire

Laminated tail with contrasting wood

Tail lamination installation

Both boats shown, one on right ready for deck installation

Deck installation, use plenty of weights to hold deck flush to gunwale and stringers

Sanding and patching hull


After hours of sanding the hull got a 4 oz fiberglass cloth covering

Three coats of epoxy and ready for sanding

Made lamination and attached to 2nd boat












I really don’t like Stitch and Glue…yet

I have been in a war zone considering all the blood I have lost today.   Taking stock of my injuries I have about 10 puncture wounds from being stabbed by wire during the stitching process.   I spent a full day with the stitching and found it an unpleasant task.    I believe the cause to be my choice of wire.    The local Home Depot did not have the copper wire needed but I did have a roll of 18 gauge baling wire that I used.   This wire turned out to be tough, sharp and not as compliant as copper wire of the same size would be.   I suffered through the day of use until finished and after licking my wounds decided to try a different wire option in the future.   I tell you this so that you do not make the same mistake I did.  If you are building a stitch and glue boat, don’t choose a hard stiff wire for your stitching.   I did a few stitches near the end with some 24 gauge galvanized wire that Home Depot did have and this was extremely easy to use in comparison.  The only problem with the thinner 24 gauge wire is the ease in which the thinner wire can cut into your wood when tightened.    So my second SUP will be stitched with the proper copper wire.

I also struggled with fitting the bow, but finally had good success after removing all the bow stitching twice and planning off more of the wood.   I was probably a few millimeters wide on my side panels after scarfing and it made a huge difference in the fit.  Once I got the wood closer to plan dimension it was easier.   Boat number two will be a cinch.

All seams received an epoxy fillet .   A second coat of epoxy was applied to the bulkheads

The stringers have been added along with fiberglassing the underside of the deck.


This was a fun day as I was able to start stitching the SUP together.   First I had to finish my patches to the bulkheads and give them an initial sealing of epoxy.

Cleaned up and ready to install

I have just enough space under the table to store all the finished components.

The sides and bottom panels ready to go

The work table cleared and cleaned for the next step

My new DeWalt circular saw is working well.   I built Alice Gale with only a jig saw and the DeWalt does make quicker and straighter cuts on the plywood.   Watch your lines though as the width of the blade can take off two much wood if you drift in to the wrong side.

Cutting the deck panel

My batten is short and does not bend as well as I desired so I made a new one with the left over pine stock used for the sheer clamps.  I now have a nice 16 ft batten that bends perfectly and is easy to hold in place with by 2 and 5 lb weights.

I made a new batten from left over shear clamp material

My 25 lb. scale weights work perfectly for holding panels down for scarfing.

Deck scarf

I am building two boats at the same time so two deck panels are glued at the same time.   Plastic sheeting separates the panels from the table top and each other.

Deck scarf

Here’s my first photo of the stitching.   I got so excited about assembly that I didn’t even take a photo of the frame installation.  I will have more photo’s from this stage on the next boat.

stitching started

To be continued …….